10 Reasons You Should Go To Big Sur

May 13, 2009

in Travel

With spring springing, the sun shining, and the birds tweeting outside my window, now is about the time I would be planning my first trip to Big Sur of the year… if I still lived in California, that is. So, since I can’t go at the moment, I thought I would share 10 of the best reasons that you should go, if you find yourself in California.

picture-7The Bixby Bridge, on highway 1

Big Sur is truly a magical place. Everyone immediately thinks of the bohemians that congregated there (and still do), but Big Sur also has a fascinating pioneer history. I highly recommend the book A Wild Coast and Lonely; Big Sur Pioneers by Rosalind Sharpe Wall, a Big Sur native – I don’t know about you, but I love reading a bit about the history of a place that I’m visiting. If you read A Wild Coast and Lonely before your trip, then you can imagine what the trek must have been like to reach Big Sur before highway 1 was created in 1937. Alright, let’s get on with the list!

1. Andrew Molera State ParkThis has always been our go-to camping spot in Big Sur, and it’s especially good if you’re going with a group of friends. You have to schlep your stuff about 1/3 mile from the parking area, and then the sites are all first-come, first-serve. The campsites are in a large, grassy field – try to snag one by the big oak tree – and a path leads down to a small beach. There is also a strenuous but gorgeous all-day hike that loops from the campground to the top of a ridge with ocean views, and then winds back down through groves of wildflowers and beachy dunes.

picture-16

The restaurant at Deetjen’s

2. Deetjen’s - Hands-down, this is my favorite place to stay in Big Sur. Very rustic – in fact, it’s virtually unchanged since “Grandpa Deetjen” built it in the 1930’s. Totally charming and magical. The small restaurant here is delish, and the teensy bar is a fun place to hang out around an eclectic group of locals for a nightcap.

picture-51The baths at Esalen

3. Esalen Intitute - Okay, you want a taste of real Big Sur Bohemia? Stay up till 1:00 a.m., then drive over to Esalen to soak in the clothing-optional, outdoor hot springs on the edge of a cliff. You think I’m kidding? No way, my friend. The hot springs are only open to the public between one and three a.m., and although I have not been there, friends of mine who have been report that yes, indeed, most people do not wear bathing suits. If that’s not your cuppa tea, you can also check out their workshop schedule – they offer over 500 workshops each year, on everything from cooking, massage, and spiritual growth to writing and yoga.

4. NepentheThe terrace at Cafe Kevah has one of the best views in Big Sur. Sit at one of the umbrella-shaded tables and sip a latte or an ice cold beer and have a panini; it’s the perfect respite after a morning hike. The Phoenix is their shop down below, and it is crammed with the work of local artisans, books, and other Big Sur specialties like local wildflower honey.

picture-6Big Sur River Inn & Restaurant

5. Big Sur River Inn - Have a tasty lunch in the restaurant here (the seared ahi tuna salad is superb) and sit outside on a deck by the river. If you decide to stay here, be sure to request a room in the main inn – the other rooms are across the highway in a horrid trailer-like motel. I know, I’ve made that mistake before!

6. Ventana - If you are looking for a really, really nice place to have dinner, Ventana is it. Lovely grounds and dining room with lots of polished wood and really comfy banquette seats, the food is always amazing and beautifully presented, the atmosphere is comfy & homey, never stuffy. The food is just as good or better than at the Post Ranch Inn (below), and the whole experience is much more relaxing.

picture-3A view of the restaurant at the Post Ranch Inn

7. Post Ranch Inn - If you’ve read your Big Sur Pioneers book, you’ll know that the Post family was one of the first to settle the coast, although the original Post Ranch was located across the highway, on the mountain side. The very modern Post Ranch Inn bears no resemblance to its rustic pioneer past – with spectacular views from the restaurant and grounds, and guest rooms suspended over the edge of the cliff, it’s all sleek wood, angular glass, and luxury. The rooms are veerrrry expensive, but if you just want to look you can call ahead for a tour – I’ve always wanted to do that.

picture-42Interior of yurt at Treebones

8. Treebones - I’ve always wanted to go here, but haven’t made it yet – somewhere between camping and a hotel, Treebones offers yurts with ocean views, queen sized beds, electricity, and sinks with hot water. The central area has a heated pool and hot tub with an ocean view, as well as a little store and restaurant.

9. Tassajara Zen Mountain Center - This is a true retreat. Buddhist monks live here year-round, and they open their doors to guests from May through September. You can stay in the simple but beautiful guest rooms for a retreat, or journey there for a day – and it is a journey! Over an hour down an extremely perilous dirt road with a sheer cliff on one side. Once there, you are rewarded with lovingly tended gardens, a Japanese-style bath house with sauna and soaking tubs, guided meditations, and a vegetarian restaurant featuring the famous Tassajara bread.

picture-22The waterfall at Julia Pfeiffer

10. Julia Pfieffer Burns State ParkThis is the crown jewel of Big Sur. A short walk leads you through a tunnel under the highway to a view of a spectacular 60 foot waterfall splashing onto a gorgeous little beach. You can’t get down to the beach, but if you plan ahead (and I mean, way ahead), you can reserve one of 2 hike-in campsites perched on a cliff right above the waterfall. I can’t imagine a more beautiful place on Earth to wake up.

I hope this has whetted your appetite for a trip to Big Sur! I can’t wait until I can visit again…

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Beautiful Big Sur | Blog Monterey: Covering Monterey, Big Sur, Salinas, Pacific Grove, Carmel-by-the-Sea, Seaside, Marina, Sand City, Soledad, Carmel Valley and more!
May 20, 2009 at 2:03 pm

{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Alison Kerr May 14, 2009 at 9:59 pm

Great photos. I’ve never been there and it’s a long way from Kansas so I’m not likely to be soon, but I do have wonderful memories of the Northern California redwoods when I was close enough to spend time in them. It’s hard to miss places you love, isn’t it? Every time I see photos of Scotland my heart aches just a little. The same happens when I think of the ocean. But Kansas is so beautiful and green right now, my sadness only lasts for a moment.

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2 Wearability.us May 15, 2009 at 6:13 am

How I love Big Sur – props for mentioning Post Ranch Inn, probably the best place to grab expensive cocktails and watch the sun set. I love the decor, too. Modern yet natural. That reminds me, I should plan a trip down there in the next month or so!

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3 Emilia May 15, 2009 at 12:43 pm

That’s my yurt! :) My fiance and I got engaged at treebones earlier this year. It is the most relaxing and romantic place I have ever been. I posted pictures here – http://theauburnandivory.blogspot.com/2009/03/big-sur-and-big-news.html

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4 Visakha May 15, 2009 at 5:14 pm

All this talk of camping and Big Sur requires that we makes plan immediately Laura! I’ll pick you up on at the airport in a few hours. Oh and you can bring B along. :)

On a related note, I think it’s Big Sur River Inn that has a lovely picnic area. You can also toss one of the available chairs in the river and enjoy a cocktail while basking in the sun.

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5 Little Gray Pixel May 16, 2009 at 10:00 pm

OMG. You hit on everything I LOVE about Big Sur. The view at Nepenthe is awe-inspiring, and I’ve seen the best sunsets near the Bixby Bridge. Now I must plan a trip back …

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